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After our experiences in Wallilabou, sage advice from other
Cruisers and the warning
bulletins from CSSN, we put the boat in Bequia and took the ferry back to
Kingstown. We highly recommend Ken's Taxi for getting around without hassles. |
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The best spot to get an overview is from Fort Charlotte near
the northern end of Kingstown Bay. The Fort needs repairs, so the
small Guide fee is welcomed by the service volunteers. |
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Besides being a historic site, the grounds lodge a currently
active women's prison. Abandoned long ago, it also co-existed with a
hospital for a Leper colony . |
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The cannons here were stamped with British arsenal proofs.
These are more like light field guns rather than typical heavy emplacement
pieces. It makes a nice display but I doubt that their authentic
heritage placed them inside Fort Charlotte. |
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Well, let's take a peek through the gun portals. I
placed the camera at the cannon's muzzle to get an idea of how wide was the
field of fire. Conclusion: Not too wide and definitely restricted from
low angles for suppressing enemy fire. |
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Kingstown is a busy commercial port with all manner of ships
coming and going. You can get your yacht in here to check-in to
Customs, but the local captain's do not give much care to protecting your
pretty boat. Churning waves, pilings and concrete docks are not marina
friendly. |
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Kingstown Bay is large and deep with very few safe anchorages; being
commercial, nobody worries about bowling over a visiting yacht with a huge
bow wave. |
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Kingstown Bay is very open to ocean swell.
If you must, clear in / clear out and get the heck out. |
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Ottley Hall is just north of Kingstown and is a yachting
facility with travel lift and dry dock. Although very low key, there
is a fuel dock and provision for long term storage. When the swells roll in from
the west, the docks are untenable. |
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Some of the coastal development off of Questelles Point. |
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If there is a piece off land vacant, someone will build on
it. Many of the houses here are squatters, but nobody seems to care
very much. |
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For a small island, E. T. Joshua airport is decent and
practical. It does need a facelift and 10 million dollars would make it spectacular.
The airport could easily serve all the needs of St. Vincent, but "No, No"
the current government is expropriating land for an all new completely
un-necessary 450 million EC dollar International airport. |
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The cost of the new airport is more than half of SVG’s Gross
Domestic Product and, if it were to be financed by borrowing, would account
for one third of the national debt. The old airport is right in
Kingstown near the ferries; the new one will be 13 miles north east near
Argyle. |
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Old E. T. Joshua airport is under used and compared to the
land being pillaged near Arglye, a modest expropriation and small road
improvements would be feasible. We have seen it all before - special
interest groups, corruption and unfettered pork barreling. |
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Thirteen miles to the New Airport might seem short, but take
a look at the kind of land through which you have to punch a new highway.
You have to wonder, "Why do people of the Grenadines allow St. Vincent to
squander their tax dollars?" |
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We took at drive up through the eastern side of St. Vincent
to see how the people lived and get an idea of the socio-economic indicators
of life here. |
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Compared to some of islands that we have visited,
people here seem to be comfortable. Affluence appears occasionally but by
and large homes are nice and well cared for. |
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In the Mesopotamia valley, the land is verdant and the soil
is richly fertile. The smell of the land overpowers the olfactory
senses with the earthiness of life itself. If you plant something, it
will grow - that means economic independence. |
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This country is blessed with life giving rains.
Combined with rich soil and year round growing seasons, the people here can
survive without much foreign input. Unfortunately, through television,
they see Western society as the desirable way to go. |
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As usual, the churches are doing well. |
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The roads are a potpourri of conditions; this being one of
the better ones makes you wonder about the 13 mile drive from and to the
newly proposed airport. |
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The camera does not do justice to the wild undulations in
the land. It is breath taking; in places the river beds cascade and
wind over the land as sinuously as snakes. |
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Green, green, luscious and voluptuous, burgeoning with life
even on rugged volcanic walls that mountain goats abandon, and despite man
the spoiler, Mother Nature prevails. |
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Ok, so the country is beautiful, it has a deepwater cruise
ship dock and a good airport in Kingstown - so where are all the large
hotels and resorts? Tourists are not coming to stay in St. Vincent -
why not? |
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Beaches - they do not have acceptable beaches. The few
existing beaches have black sand. Do you know how excruciatingly
painful it is to walk on black sand? Basking on the beach is like basting in
an oven; not the poster picture of an idyllic Caribbean destination. |
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The developers know this all too well. St. Vincent's
shorelines are hard volcanic material thrust up from the deep; it cleaves
the water surface providing sheer vertical drop-offs into the ocean abyss.
Unless you fly in sand, the new airport will not overcome this problem. |
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As it is now, a world economic meltdown over oil prices
would barely effect the average citizen here. While other empires
collapsed, they could sustain themselves from the land. They might
have to stop driving and give up junk food, but they would do relatively
well. |
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It appears that the agenda is being driven by the nouveau
riche who see emulating other societies as their salvation. |
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We were told stories of people being given back their home's
purchase price, told to strip the doors, windows and roofs and move out.
Find another place, they say. But land values have sky-rocketed, so people
can't get anything comparable to their old home. (Rip-off!) |
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Of course, the foreign investors do not care. Their
wealth is isolated and outside the meddlesome political sphere. |
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The natural wealth of land and sea lies dormant. This
country would be a perfect eco-destination, but that does not appeal to the
quick solution people. They want it now and to hell with their
children's heritage. |
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Well - life goes on, and I am only a visitor. |
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I confess that I do snicker a bit when the taxi driver
complains about the traffic jams. |
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I wonder out loud whether these home owners realize now the
"Master Plan" is going to deflate their currency and drive up taxes.
"Hey folks, wake up! VAT is only the beginning of your ruination." |
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It's time to return to the sea. |